My Dutch friend wanted 'real grasslands.' I took him to Inner Mongolia. He got real grasslands.
My friend Lars from Amsterdam said: "I want to see the real China. Not cities. Not temples. Nature."I said: "Inner Mongolia."
He said: "Isn't that just... grass?"
I said: "Yes. And it's the most grass you've ever seen."
The route:
We flew Beijing → Hailar (Hulunbuir). 2-hour flight. ¥400-800 depending on season.
From Hailar, we hired a driver with a 4WD. ¥700/day. Worth every yuan.
Day 1: Hailar to the grasslands
One hour from the airport, the city disappears.
Just... green. Rolling hills of green. To the horizon. No buildings. No roads (just dirt tracks). Occasional herds of horses or sheep.
Lars rolled down the window. The air smelled like grass and horse manure. He smiled.
"This is what I imagined China would be."
Day 2: Staying in a yurt
We stayed at a grassland homestay. A real yurt (蒙古包, měnggǔbāo) — circular, felt walls, wood stove inside.
The family cooked us hand-held mutton (手扒肉, shǒubāròu) — lamb boiled in salt water, eaten with a knife.
We drank milk tea (奶茶, nǎichá) — salty, buttery, nothing like the bubble tea version.
Lars ate two plates of lamb. He said: "This is the best lamb I've ever had. It tastes like it actually lived outside."
It did.
Day 3: Horse riding
The family let us ride their horses. Not tourist-paddock horses. Real working horses.
Lars had ridden once in his life. He got on. The horse walked. Then trotted. Then Lars fell off.
He was fine. Just embarrassed. The Mongolian family laughed kindly and helped him back on.
The practical stuff:
Best time to go:
• June–early July: Green, fewer crowds, lower prices
• July–August: Peak season, most beautiful, but touristy and expensive
• September: Golden grasslands, stunning light, cooler temps
How to get there:
• Fly to Hailar (Hulunbuir Dongshan Airport) from Beijing, Harbin, or Hohhot
• Or take the train from Beijing (13 hours, sleeper recommended)
Getting around:
• Hire a driver with 4WD: ¥600-900/day
• Self-drive possible but challenging — many roads are unpaved, signs are in Chinese
• Public transport between towns exists but is slow and infrequent
Where to stay:
• Yurt homestays: ¥200-400/night including meals
• Hotels in Hailar: ¥300-600/night
• Always confirm they accept foreign passports
What to eat:
• Hand-held mutton (手扒肉)
• Milk tea (奶茶)
• Grilled lamb skewers
• Yogurt (thick, sour, homemade)
What to bring:
• Warm layers (nights are cold even in summer)
• Sunscreen and hat (no shade on the grasslands)
• Insect repellent
• Wet wipes (bathrooms are... basic)
• Cash (many places don't accept mobile payment)
The unexpected moment:
At night, with zero light pollution, the Milky Way was visible.
Lars stood outside the yurt for 30 minutes, just staring up.
"I've never seen stars like this. Amsterdam has too much light. This... this feels like another planet."
One honest downside:
The grasslands are getting commercialized. Some areas have yurt "resorts" with concrete floors and karaoke machines.
To see the real thing, go with a local family or ask your driver to take you to less touristy areas.
Lars's final verdict: "I came for grass. I left with lamb in my stomach, horse hair on my pants, and a photo of the Milky Way that I'll keep forever."
Anyone else been to Inner Mongolia? Did you stay in a real yurt or a tourist one?
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