My Tibetan guide told me I was the first foreigner he'd met who didn't get altitude sickness.
My friend from New Zealand went to Tibet. Not Lhasa — everyone goes to Lhasa. She went to Ngari (阿里), in the far west. Average altitude: 4,500 meters.Where is Ngari?
It's the westernmost prefecture of Tibet, bordering India and Nepal. It's one of the most remote, least populated regions on Earth.
The landscape: vast plains, snow-capped mountains, sacred lakes, and ancient ruins. It looks like another planet.
The journey:
She flew from Lhasa to Gunsa Airport (阿里昆莎机场) — one of the highest airports in the world at 4,274 meters.
The flight was 2 hours. The landing was bumpy. The air was thin.
Her Tibetan guide, Tenzin, met her at the airport.
"Most foreigners get sick on the first day," he said. "We'll see how you do."
Altitude sickness:
Symptoms: headache, nausea, dizziness, shortness of breath, insomnia.
My friend had prepared:
• Diamox (acetazolamide) — started 2 days before arrival
• No alcohol for a week before
• Light meals only
• No strenuous activity for the first 48 hours
She felt fine. A mild headache on Day 1. Nothing after that.
Tenzin was impressed.
What she saw:
Mount Kailash (冈仁波齐):
A 6,638-meter sacred mountain. Hindus, Buddhists, Jains, and Bonpos all consider it holy. She did the 3-day kora (pilgrimage circuit) — 52 kilometers at high altitude.
Lake Manasarovar (玛旁雍错):
One of the highest freshwater lakes in the world. The water is so clear it reflects the sky like a mirror.
The Guge Kingdom ruins (古格王朝遗址):
An ancient Tibetan kingdom that mysteriously disappeared 400 years ago. The ruins climb up a hillside like a sandcastle.
The practical stuff:
Permits:
• Tibet Travel Permit (required for all foreigners)
• Alien's Travel Permit (for areas outside Lhasa)
• Military Permit (for Ngari specifically — takes 2-3 weeks to process)
Best time:
• June to September. Winter is impossibly cold and many roads are closed.
Getting there:
• Lhasa to Ngari by air (2 hours, ¥1,500-2,000 one way)
• Or overland from Lhasa (3-4 days driving, requires a guide and permits)
Cost:
• Guided tour: ¥800-1,500 per day (includes vehicle, guide, accommodation)
• Not cheap. But there are no independent travel options for foreigners.
Tips:
• Start Diamox 2 days before arrival
• Don't fly directly from sea level to 4,500m. Spend 2-3 days in Lhasa (3,650m) first.
• Bring warm clothes. Even in summer, nights are below freezing.
• Sunscreen is essential. UV at 4,500m is intense.
• There are no ATMs in Ngari. Bring cash.
• Mobile signal is spotty. Download offline maps.
My friend's verdict: "Tenzin told me I was the first foreigner in 6 months who didn't get altitude sickness. I felt like a superhero. Then I tried to climb a hill and realized I was breathing like I'd run a marathon. Altitude doesn't care how tough you think you are."
Anyone else been to Tibet or another high-altitude region in China?
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