My friend from Canada had been to Beijing three times. Each time, she saw the Great Wall and the Forbidden City.
On her fourth trip, a local colleague said: "You've seen the postcard Beijing. Let me show you the real Beijing."
They spent Saturday hutong-hopping.
What is a hutong?
Hutongs (胡同) are narrow alleyways lined with traditional courtyard houses (siheyuan). They're the old neighborhoods of Beijing — some dating back 700+ years.
The route:
1. Nanluoguxiang (南锣鼓巷)
• The most famous hutong. Touristy but fun.
• Shops, cafes, street food.
• Best early morning (before 9 AM) or evening.
2. Wudaoying (五道营胡同)
• Less touristy than Nanluoguxiang.
• Boutique shops, craft beer bars, independent cafes.
• Expat-friendly but still very Chinese.
3. Guozijian (国子监街)
• Historic street with the Confucius Temple.
• Beautiful archways. Quieter than the others.
• Best for photos.
4. Yandaixiejie (烟袋斜街)
• "Skewed Tobacco Pouch Street"
• Near Houhai Lake.
• Mix of old shops and modern bars.
5. Fangjia Hutong (方家胡同)
• Art galleries and creative spaces.
• Less commercial. More local.
6. Baitasi (白塔寺) area
• Around the White Pagoda Temple.
• Renovated hutongs with rooftop cafes.
• Best view of the old city.
7. Zhonglouwan (钟鼓楼湾)
• Near the Drum and Bell Towers.
• Old Beijing snacks and traditional crafts.
8. Liulichang (琉璃厂)
• Ancient street for calligraphy, paintings, and antiques.
• More cultural, less commercial.
How to explore:
Best way: Rent a bike or just walk. The hutongs are too narrow for cars. Best time: Weekday mornings (quiet) or weekend evenings (lively). Duration: You could spend a full day and only cover 3-4 hutongs properly.
What to eat:
• Zhajiangmian (炸酱面) — Beijing's signature noodle dish
• Douzhi (豆汁) — fermented bean drink. Acquired taste.
• Jiaoquan (焦圈) — crispy fried dough ring, eaten with douzhi
• Bingtanghulu (冰糖葫芦) — candied hawthorn on a stick
• Mongolian hot pot in a hutong courtyard restaurant
Tips:
• Don't just stick to the main hutongs. Explore the side alleys.
• Many courtyards are private homes. Don't enter without invitation.
• Some hutongs are being demolished for modernization. Visit soon.
• Houhai Lake at sunset is beautiful.
• Bring cash for small snack vendors.
My Canadian friend's reaction:
"I thought I knew Beijing. I'd seen the Wall, the Palace, the Temple of Heaven. But walking through hutongs, drinking douzhi with locals, eating noodles in a 200-year-old courtyard — that's the Beijing that doesn't make it into guidebooks."
Anyone else explored Beijing's hutongs? Which was your favorite?